Monte × Fireplay’s Volcano dinner revisited: fire, salt baking and wood smoke after a 12-year reunion

Taipei's contemporary European restaurants Monte and Fireplay launched a limited-time “Volcano” dinner on August 14th and 15th, jointly planned by Fireplay chef Nick Sor and Monte pastry chef Elsa. The starting point of this collaboration was the experience of the two working side by side in the same kitchen 12 years ago. Now they have accumulated expertise in different fields and reunited to present the image of a volcano from eruption to cooling in a six-course meal sequence.

Why did Nick Sor and Elsa choose to collaborate again?

The two chefs completed food preparation and meal service in the same kitchen 12 years ago, and then took different cooking routes: Nick Sor focused on direct fire and wood-fired cooking methods; Elsa stayed at Monte and worked with chef Oliver. After reuniting after many years, the two combined their respective specialties of direct fire, salt baking, smoking and wood-fired techniques into the same menu, allowing each other's styles to be intertwined in different dishes.

How do the six meal sequences present the process from volcano formation to cooling?

The entire set meal takes the generation and cooling of the volcano as the narrative axis, gradually transitioning from the hot opening to the dessert at the end. The opening two snacks start with lighter smoke and charcoal aroma: the seasonal bonito is briefly grilled with straw and served with smoked radish, yogurt and smoked caviar; the Australian Wagyu striploin is charcoal-grilled and then diced and mixed with Korean spicy mayonnaise. The seafood soup that was served next was made by grilling the tomatoes over charcoal fire and then boiling them with the seafood stock. It was paired with low-temperature oil-confit red grouper and fried tomatoes.

How to use different heating logic for seafood dishes?

The octopus was grilled directly over charcoal for a charred exterior and served with a sauce of pumpkin, carrot, garam masala and yoghurt, alongside bamboo-charcoal brioche. Surf clam was instead enclosed in a thick salt crust and baked, allowing heat to penetrate gradually while limiting moisture loss. Parsley-and-anchovy sauce, mustard, capers and tonburi accompanied it. Both dishes used fire, with one emphasising char on the surface and the other a moist interior.

How to stack the depth of flavor between the middle part of the meal and the main course?

After entering the middle section, the taste gradually increases. Japanese mackerel is charcoal-grilled with crispy skin, served with a sauce made of bacon and coffee, and watercress, saffron mayonnaise and kale add a herbal and slightly bitter finish. Xueyan Chicken Thighs are stuffed with ground chicken and chicken cartilage to add a crunchy texture. They are dipped in raw eggs and topped with Worcestershire sauce made with tomatoes and Dijon mustard.

The main course is Australian Wagyu striploin charcoal grilled and served with three onion dishes: Hokkaido onions braised in white port wine, caramelized onion jam, and French onion white sauce Soubise. The same ingredients are boiled, caramelized and emulsified to show differences in sweetness and texture.

How does the dessert finish echo the imagery of the cooling volcano?

After the main course, fresh longan and wood-fired dried longan are served together, paired with Earl Grey tea and brown-sugar granita - the fresh pulp retains moisture, while the dried longan has a more concentrated sweetness and smoky aroma, and the granita is used to reduce the fat feeling in the mouth. The next dessert featured Tainong No. 57 sweet potatoes, roasted until dense and then paired with charcoal-flavored Madagascar vanilla ice cream and Maldon sea salt caramel. The last dish of the whole meal was bamboo charcoal sandwich biscuits, filled with red bean custard, and salted egg yolk on the surface, finishing with salty taste.

This "Volcano" is a two-day dinner party, and the event ended in mid-August.