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Son Heung-min’s watches: perpetual calendars, flyback chronographs and double balance wheels

From Patek Philippe Nautilus to Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, published photos of watches provide an entrance to understand the functions. The annual calendar is different from the perpetual calendar, and hollowing out does not just mean removing the dial.

Jordan Lin, Deputy Editor
Son Heung-min’s watches: perpetual calendars, flyback chronographs and double balance wheels

Son Heung-min’s watch styles in public events often draw attention to the complex functions of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Rather than lining up different watches by price, a more informative view is to understand what problems they each deal with: some manage the date, some measure elapsed time, and some bring regulating mechanisms and movement finishing directly into view.

Cover image: 하나금융그룹

Son Heung-min’s appearance in public interview
Son Heung-min’s appearance in a public interview. Image: 살롱드립 유튜브

Nautilus 5740, perpetual calendar is put into 8.42mm thickness

Nautilus Ref. 5740/1G-001 is presented with a white gold case and bracelet, with a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 8.42 mm. It is equipped with a 240 Q automatic movement. The dial distributes the day of the week, date, month, leap year, moon phase and 24-hour information in different positions, allowing the calendar function to coexist with the horizontal texture of the series.

The perpetual calendar can handle the monthly and leap year rules, but it should still be used according to the mechanical structure and operating status; if it stops or needs correction, it should follow the brand's operating instructions. The words "perpetual calendar" cannot be understood to mean that it does not need to be set under any circumstances, or that it will never require maintenance.

Annual calendar and flyback chronograph, answer different time questions

Patek Philippe Ref. 5961P-001 also appeared in the public watch collection, combining annual calendar and flyback chronograph, and forming an appearance with a blue dial, platinum case and diamond configuration. The annual calendar is different from the perpetual calendar. The former usually still needs to be adjusted at the end of February every year. The two cannot be regarded as the same function just because the dial displays a lot of information.

Flyback is related to the timing operation. Being able to reset to zero and start the next period during the measurement is two different issues than how to change the date on the calendar. After understanding the functions and looking at how the displays are distributed, it will be easier to distinguish the main time, date and chronograph cumulative information, rather than just considering the number of small dials as a level of complexity.

Royal Oak double balance wheel, not directly related to the two time zones

The key point of Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is to arrange a second set of balance wheels and hairsprings on the same axis, and use the speed regulating structure to handle stability. The brand's official 15407ST specifications list a 3132 automatic movement and a power reserve of approximately 45 hours; the double balance wheel is not two independent time zones, nor does it divide a watch into two time reading systems.

The hollowing out makes the movement parts and layers visible from the front, but it does not just remove a dial. Bridges, edges and surface finishing also become objects of observation. The structure must be arranged between retaining necessary support and presenting space, so that the machine becomes part of the vision at the same time.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Skeleton Product Picture
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Skeleton Product Picture.

Enter from the photo of the person, and then return to the specific model

Public photos of celebrities provide a starting point for understanding the work. The model, material and function should still be confirmed separately from the official specifications. Similar appearances may exist in different metals, dials and ages. One series of data cannot be applied to every photo, or the value can be calculated just because someone has worn it.

You can read it firstPatek Philippe Perpetual Calendar SpecificationsandAP double balance wheel introduction, establish the basis of function and structure, and then look at the relationship between wrist size, cuffs and clothing. The common observational value of these watches lies in how to transform mechanical problems into readable displays and shapes, so that in addition to character modeling, there is also watchmaking content worth slowly understanding.

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