"I'm not going to adjust my cooking to cater to Taiwanese taste just because I'm entering the Taiwan market—in other words, I don't want to underestimate my guests." These are the words of a three-Michelin-star chef who serves only ten guests a night, presents twenty courses over four hours, and pairs every dish with its own music, lighting, and scent. But this time, he's opening a casual French bistro with no minimum spend, no time limit on dining, and open to anyone who wants to walk in for breakfast or afternoon tea.
Paul Pairet's "POLUX by Paul Pairet Taipei" opened in August on Section 2, Anhe Road, Taipei, after 16 months of preparation. The space previously housed Orchid, a Michelin Guide-listed restaurant, and the venture is once again backed by Frank Liu (劉宗原). "Choosing Orchid's original site wasn't part of the original plan—we looked at around 20 locations in Tianmu, Dazhi, Xinyi, and Zhongshan. In the end, this spot scored highest overall, with easy accessibility being the biggest advantage," Frank said.
The space was completely gutted and rebuilt, with ceilings soaring nearly two stories high. Warm golden-bronze tones meet wood elements, French Baroque-style carved ceilings pair with vintage floral floor tiles, and minimalist chandeliers offer a contemporary nod to classic crystal fixtures. The most coveted spot is likely the "Veranda"—inspired by the semi-open-air seating at POLUX Shanghai, adapted for Taipei's climate with windows that can open to the breeze or close for air conditioning. Shaded by trees along the sidewalk, it becomes a free-spirited corner of the city.
What Is a Real French Café, Anyway?
POLUX is Paul Pairet's nickname, borrowed from a small dog in a cartoon beloved across France. The red diamond-shaped sign hanging at the entrance draws inspiration from French tabac shops that legally sell cigarettes, and the same emblem is embroidered on the back of the chef's uniform. Monica Luo, PR director who has worked with Paul Pairet for over a decade, explains: "For Asians, a 'French café' is easily mistaken for a place to grab coffee and pastries. But for the French, it's actually a bistro that serves full meals, open continuously from morning to closing—you can drop by anytime for a coffee, or sit down for a proper meal." POLUX Taipei carries this logic through: no minimum spend, no dining time limits. Reservations opened on July 29 and filled up within a month, but some seats are still held back daily for walk-ins.
At launch, the restaurant serves four time slots—brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner—with around 40 dishes on the menu. Asked if there's a signature dish, the chef's answer is "all of them," and he's not joking: "'Every dish must be delicious' is the core value POLUX has to deliver. Which dish becomes the signature depends entirely on what guests love."
Arriving on social media even before the restaurant itself was the French toast. About 3cm thick, its surface glistens with deep brown caramel; served alongside a scoop of vanilla-forward soft-serve, one cut releases a satisfying caramel crackle, revealing an interior as delicate as soufflé. The dish first appeared on the 2015 brunch menu at Mr & Mrs Bund in Shanghai, then went viral on Instagram among Japanese and Korean tourists after POLUX Shanghai opened in 2019. The method itself is remarkably simple: "French toast originated as a way for French families to use up leftover bread in the fridge. The key to great flavor is 'dryness'—you let the bread dry out as much as possible first, then soak it in a mixture of egg yolk, milk, and cream for at least a full night, dust it with vanilla sugar, and pan-fry until golden and crisp."
No Compromises, But Adjustments Are Made
The Taipei menu is almost identical to Shanghai's—Paul Pairet believes this is how the brand's spirit stays consistent. But even with a complete SOP, a different city and different ingredients inevitably lead to differences: without finding the right breed of chicken, chicken dishes are simply left off the menu for now; since local duck isn't fat enough, duck confit becomes goose leg confit instead. The chef says the menu will be adjusted further once the team becomes more familiar with the Taiwan market and finds ingredients truly suited to it—not to cater to local taste, but in keeping with his consistent standard: "Every dish, the moment it hits the table, is already a perfect score. That's the cooking POLUX aims to deliver."
POLUX by Paul Pairet Taipei｜1F, No. 83, Section 2, Anhe Road, Da'an District, Taipei. Tel: 02-2378-3333. Open Wednesday to Sunday, lunch 11:30–14:00, afternoon tea 14:00–17:30, dinner 17:30–22:00. Reservations available via the official websitewww.poluxbypp.taipeior through the online booking system.
